Sunday, 4 March 2012

Lecture Eleven - Fashion as Photograph.

Fashion Photography the beginning
  • Celebrities of the era were chosen to be photographed.
  • Virginia Oldini, the Countess of Castiglione. One of the first fashion models.
  • Showing women's legs in photo's was pushing the boundaries.

Fashion Magazines
  • Came about with improvements in printing.
  • Vogue vs Harpers Bazaar - leaders in fashion photography during 20's and 30's.
  • ID Magazine vs The Face - leaders during 1990's.

  • Commercial field rather than art.
  • Ghost mannequin, still life.

Fashion Blogging
  • Democratises fashion photography.
  • Anyone can write about and photograph fashion.
  • Now looking to ordinary people to influence fashion.

Photographers and Designers
  • Paul Poiret (1879-1944) - garments with the freedom from corsetry.
  • Edward Steichen - during modernism, celebration of technical aspects of the garment. Reflect garment qualities.
  • Horst P Horst - around in the 30's and 40's, responds to Salvador Dali, reflects his interests in surrealism.
  • Cecil Beaton (1904-1980) - member of the 'bright young things', photographed british royals, prolific diarist, involved in set design and film.
  • Lee Miller (1907-1977) - female, photographer and model at 19, taught herself, active in surrealist movement, war correspondent.
  • Louise Dahl Wolfe - introduces environmental fashion photography, visual contrast between figures, early adopter of colour film.
  • David Bailey - coming together of fashion, music and photography, pop culture, highly accessible.
  • Richard Avedon (1923-2004) - environmental and theatre, pioneer for the 'in-between movement', crosses into art documentary.
  • Helmut Newton (1920-2004) - typical of 1980's power body.
  • Jamel Shabazz - 1980's, photographing fashion on the streets, hip hop.
  • Jeurgen Teller (1964 - ) - works with musicians, their life as well as fashion.
  • Terry Richardson - idealised bodies, controversial.
  • Nick Knight - photoshop integral part of his work, links clothing and bodies with architecture and mechanics.
  • Ari Versluis & Ellie Uyttenbrock - reproduce catalogue style, fine art product.

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